Good cooking seldom involves reinventing the wheel but does always strive to improve upon it. Such is the thinking here as applied to the perennially familiar “ meat and two veg” - wherein our flavour upgrade now delivers two meats and three vegetables to the benefit of each. The harmonious mix is then dressed with a sauce derived from a pure braising liquid that is rich in flavour but undisguised by red wine or brandy or any other typical but unnecessary enhancement. Serves 6
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11/2 lb (750g) short ribs, cut 3 inches thick (7 cm)
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4 tbsp (60 ml) olive oil
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Salt and coarsely ground pepper
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1 Spanish onion, chopped
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1 celery stalk, chopped
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6 cloves garlic, smashed
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1 cup (250 ml) chopped carrots
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11/2 ripe roma tomatoes, topped and quartered
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1 cup (250 ml) white wine
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4 cups (1 L) white chicken stock
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2 sprigs thyme
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2 bay leaves
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2 well marbled dry aged strip loin steaks, about 1 lb (450 g) each
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1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil
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1/4 cup (50 ml) veal jus (optional)
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3 tbsp (45 ml) whipped butter
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Fine olive oil
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6 pinches of fleur de sel
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Fine olive oil
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freshly grated horseradish
Directions
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Preheat over to 325 F (160 C).
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Rub short ribs lightly with some of the olive oil and season them generously with salt and pepper. Set an overproof pot large enough to accommodate the ribs in a single layer over medium-high heat, and heat 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the olive oil. Brown the ribs on all sides-approximately 10 minutes. Remove to a platter.
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Pour off most of the fat. Heat the remaining 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil over medium-low, then add the onions and salt them light. Sweat the onions until translucent. Add the celery, garlic, and carrots; continue to sweat, stirring regularly-do not let the vegetables brown. Add the tomatoes. When the vegetables have softened, deglaze with the wine, and when that has reduced by half, return the short ribs to the pot. Add chicken stock to the cover, bring to a swimmer, add the herbs, cover the pot, and transfer to the oven.
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Check the ribs after 11/2 hours, turning them if they are not completely covered with stock. Expect a cooking time between 3 and 4 hours, but test for tenderness after 2 1/2 hours-and every half-hour after that. The meat should be pulling away from the bone and will yield easily to being pierced with a fork.
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Transfer the ribs to a much smaller pot. Set a sieve over the pot and strain in enough of the braising liquid to cover the ribs. Strain the remaining liquid into a separate pot, pressing hard on the vegetables with a wooden spoon to work some of them through the sieve. In a blender, purée the majority of the vegetables; set aside. Reduce the braising liquid until the intensity of its flavour is pleasing; set aside.
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Thoroughly heat a grill or cast-iron skillet for the steaks. If using a skillet, scatter it with salt. Cook steaks to desired doneness. Allow them to rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, add veal jus to the reserved braising liquid-or thicken it with the purée reserved vegetables, a little at a time until desired consistency is attained. Adjust seasonings. Reheat the short ribs in their braising liquid. Cut the steaks into 1/4 inch ( 5mm) slices. Whisk the butter into the thickened sauce and froth it with a hand wand.
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Arrange gnocchi or mashed potatoes in the centre of six shallow bowls. To one side of that, place four or five slices of steak; to the other, place about a 3-oz (90g) portion of short rib. Place chosen vegetable accompaniments in between. Pour the sauce all around. Follow with a drizzle of top-quality olive oil, a pinch of fleur de sel, and some freshly grated horseradish.